Appraisers and real estate agents offer advice for adding curb appeal that both preserves value and attracts potential buyers.
We asked real estate agents, appraisers, home stagers, landscape designers, and home inspectors which curb appeal projects offer the most value when your house is on the market, both in terms of its marketability and dollars. Here is what they told us:
1. Paint the house.
Hands down, the most commonly offered curb appeal advice from our real estate pros and appraisers is to give the exterior of your home a good paint job. Buyers will instantly notice it and appraisers will note it on the valuation.
“Paint is probably the number one thing inside and out,” says Frank Lucco, managing partner of Houston-based IRR-Residential Appraisers and Consultants. “I’d give additional value for that. If you’re under two years remaining life (on the paint job), paint the exterior because it tends to show wear badly.”
Just make sure you stay within the range of accepted colors for your market. A house that’s painted a wildly different color from its competition will be marked down in value by appraisers.
2. Have the house washed
Before you make the investment in a paint job, though, take a good look at the house. If it’s got mildew or general grunge, just washing the house could make a world of difference, says Valerie Torelli, a California real estate agent with a background in accounting.
Before she puts a house on the market, Torelli often does exterior makeovers on her clients’ homes, a service she pays for herself to get higher selling prices. Overall, she says her goal is to spend less than $5,000, with a goal of generating an extra $10,000 to $15,000 on the sale price.
Torelli specifies pressure-washing—a job that should be left to professionals. Pressure washing makes the house look “bright and clean in addition to getting rid of unsightly things like cobwebs, which may not be seen from the yard but will detract from the home's cleanliness when seen up close,” she says.
The cost to have a professional cleaning should be a few hundred dollars--a fraction of the cost of having the house painted.
3. Trim the shrubs and green up the yard.
California real estate agent Valerie Torelli says she puts a lot of emphasis on landscaping, such as cutting down overgrown bushes and replacing them with leafy plants and annuals mulched with beautiful reddish-brown bark. “It runs me $30 to $50,” says Torelli. “Do you get a return on your money? Absolutely. It sucks people in."
You also don’t want bare spots. Take the time to fertilize the yard, throw out some grass seed, and if need be, add some sod.
4. Add a splash of color.
It could be a flower bed of annuals by the mailbox, a paint job for the front door, or a brightly colored bench or an Adirondack chair. “You can get a cute little bench at Home Depot for $99,“ Torelli notes. “Spray paint it bright red or blue and set it in the yard or on the front porch.”
It’s not a bad idea, but don’t plan on getting extra points from an appraiser for a red bench, says John Bredemeyer, president of Realcorp in Omaha. “It’s difficult to quantify, but it does make a home sell more quickly,” Bredemeyer says. “Maybe yours sold a couple weeks faster than the house down the street. That’s the best way to look at these things.”
5. Add a fancy mailbox and house numbers.
An upscale mail box and architectural house numbers or an address plaque can give your house a distinctive look that stands out from everyone else on the block. Torelli makes them a part of her exterior makeovers “I’ve gotten those hand-painted mailboxes,” she says. “A nice one runs you $40 to $50.” Architectural house numbers may run as high as a few hundred dollars.
6. Repair or clean the roof.
Springfield, Va.-based home inspector and former builder Reggie Marston says the roof is one of the first things he looks at in assessing the condition of a home. He’ll look at other houses in the neighborhood to see if there are a lot of replaced roofs and see if the subject house has one as well. If not, he’ll look for curls in the shingles or missing shingles. “I’m looking at the roof for end-of-life expectancy,” he says.
You can pay for roof repairs now, or pay for them later in a lower appraisal; appraisers will mark down the value by the cost of the repair. That could knock thousands of dollars off your appraisal. According to Remodeling Magazine’s 2010-2011 Cost vs. Value Report, the average cost of a new asphalt shingle roof is about $21,500.
“Roofs are issues,” Lucco says. “You won’t throw money away on that job. You gotta have a decent roof.”
Stains and plant matter, such as moss, can be handled with cleaning. It’s a job that can often be done in a day for a few hundred dollars, and makes the roof look like new. It’s not a DIY project; call a professional with the right tools to clean it without damaging it.
7. Put up a fence.
A picket fence with a garden gate to frame the yard is an asset. A fence has more impact in a family-oriented neighborhood than an upscale retirement community, Bredemeyer says, but in most instances, appraisers will give extra value for one, as long as it’s in good condition. “Day in a day out, a fence is a plus,“ Bredemeyer says. Expect to pay $2,000 to $3,500 for a professionally installed gated picket fence 3 feet high and 100 feet long.
8. Perform routine maintenance and cleaning.
Nothing sets off subconscious alarms like hanging gutters, missing bricks from the front steps, or lawn tools rusting in the bushes. It makes even the professionals question what else hasn’t been taken care of.
“A house is worth less if the maintenance isn’t done,” Lucco says. “Those little things can add up and be a very big detractor. When people say, ‘I’d buy it if it weren’t for all the deferred maintenance,’ what they’re really saying is, ‘I’d still buy it if you reduce the price.’”
By: Pat Curry
Georgia-based freelance writer Pat Curry has covered housing and real estate for consumer and trade publications for more than a decade, including covering new home sales and marketing for BUILDER, the magazine of the National Association of Home Builders.
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Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
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A Blog to provide information to buyers and sellers of real estate.
Monday, December 27, 2010
Monday, December 20, 2010
How to use Comparable Sales to Price Your Home
How to Use Comparable Sales to Price Your Home
Before you put your home up for sale, use the right comparable sales to find the perfect price. Read
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Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Merry Christmas
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Saturday, December 18, 2010
Holiday Lighting Safety Checklist
Holiday Lighting Safety Checklist
Before you plug in and light up for the holidays, run your decorations through this quick safety check. Read
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Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Pet Odor Can Chase Away Buyers
Pet Odor Can Chase Away Buyers
Don’t let pet odors derail your home sale. Read
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Friday, December 10, 2010
Holiday Fire Safety Tips
Holiday Fire Safety Tips
The holiday season is one of the most dangerous times of the year for household fires, so take note of these tips to reduce your risk. Read
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Friday, December 3, 2010
One Really Bad Proposal
The news has been really scary for the last several days. In Washington they have been looking for ways to decrease the looming deficits. One really bad idea is to abolish the tax deduction for home mortgage interest. This would be a terrible assault on the middle class. It would have the following effects.
This would concentrate more of America's wealth in the hands of large investors and institutions. I believe that home ownership has deep cultural effects. Children raised in the family home learn different values than those who grow up in rental and public housing. Home ownership teaches personal responsibility. When problems arise you can't call someone else to solve your problem.
Owning property was the driving force in the creation of our country. People left their homes and immigrated to this continent for the opportunity to own real estate and succeed. Today America is still viewed as a land of opportunity. Any thing that makes it more difficult to own your own home and control your destiny is misguided.
I and others are making a call to action. We need to tell our congressmen and senators to keep the home mortgage interest deductions. Please join the effort. Call or email their offices.
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- It would increase the tax burden on middle class families.
- It would make home ownership less affordable.
- It would decrease demand for existing homes.
- It would inhibit future gains in the value of our homes.
- It would further shift housing toward rentals.
This would concentrate more of America's wealth in the hands of large investors and institutions. I believe that home ownership has deep cultural effects. Children raised in the family home learn different values than those who grow up in rental and public housing. Home ownership teaches personal responsibility. When problems arise you can't call someone else to solve your problem.
Owning property was the driving force in the creation of our country. People left their homes and immigrated to this continent for the opportunity to own real estate and succeed. Today America is still viewed as a land of opportunity. Any thing that makes it more difficult to own your own home and control your destiny is misguided.
I and others are making a call to action. We need to tell our congressmen and senators to keep the home mortgage interest deductions. Please join the effort. Call or email their offices.
Visit my Website.
Check out our Facebook Page.
Thursday, December 2, 2010
4320 Elizabeth Avenue New Bern, NC 28562
Great new home constructed by Crayton and Company. 1400 square feet of heated space for $128,900 Three bedrooms and two baths in a great floor plan. The owners association provides the yard maintenance for $300 per year. Imagine not having to mow your own yard. Open floor plan creates a wonderful family atmosphere.
Call me at 252 635 1100 to see this home or visit my Website. Check out our Facebook Page.
Friday, November 26, 2010
Cleaning and Caring for Siding
Cleaning and repairing your home's siding once every year will pay off in the form of a long life and increased value for your home.
Cleaning wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, fiber-cement siding
All types of siding benefit from a good cleaning once every year to remove grit, grime, and mildew. The best way—whether you have wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, or fiber-cement—is with a bucket of warm, soapy water (1/2 cup trisodium phosphate—TSP, available at grocery stores, hardware stores, and home improvement centers—dissolved in 1 gallon of water) and a soft-bristled brush attached to a long handle. Divide your house into 20-foot sections, clean each from top to bottom, and rinse. For two-story homes, you'll be using a ladder, so keep safety foremost.
Cleaning an average-sized house may take you and a friend every bit of a weekend. If you don't have the time—or the inclination—you can have your house professionally cleaned for $300-$500. A professional team will use a power washer and take less than a day.
You can rent a power washer to do the job yourself for about $75 per day, but beware if you don't have experience with the tool. Power washers force water through a nozzle at high pressure, resulting in water blasts that can strip paint, gouge softwoods, loosen caulk, and eat through mortar. Also, the tool can force water under horizontal lap joints, resulting in moisture accumulating behind the siding. A siding professional has the expertise to prevent water penetration at joints, seams around windows and doors, and electrical fixtures.
Inspect for damage
Right before you clean is the ideal time to inspect your house for signs of damage or wear and tear. A house exterior is most vulnerable to water infiltration where siding butts against windows, doors, and corner moldings, says Frank Lesh, a professional house inspector in Chicago and past president of the American Society of Home Inspectors. For all types of siding, look for caulk that has cracked due to age or has pulled away from adjacent surfaces, leaving gaps. Reapply a color-matched exterior caulk during dry days with temperatures in excess of 65 degrees F for maximum adhesion.
Other defects include wood siding with chipped or peeling paint, and cracked boards and trim. If you have a stucco exterior, be on the lookout for cracks and chips. For brick, look for crumbling mortar joints. Repair defects before cleaning. The sooner you make repairs, the better you protect your house from moisture infiltration that can lead to dry rot and mold forming inside your walls.
Repair wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement siding
Damage to wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement horizontal lap siding often occurs because of everyday accidents—being struck by sticks and stones thrown from a lawn mower, or from objects like baseballs. Repairing horizontal lap siding requires the expertise to remove the damaged siding while leaving surrounding siding intact. Unless you have the skills, hire a professional carpenter or siding contractor. Expect to pay $200-$300 to replace one or two damaged siding panels or pieces of wood clapboard.
Repaint wood, fiber-cement
Houses with wood siding should be repainted every five years, or as soon as the paint finish begins to deteriorate. A professional crew will paint a two-story, 2,300 square foot house for $3,000-$5,000. If you've cleaned your house exterior yourself, you've done much of the prep work and will save the added cost that a painting contractor would charge to clean the siding before painting.
Fiber-cement siding, whether it comes with a factory-applied color finish or is conventionally painted, requires repainting far less often (every 8-10 years) than wood siding. That's because fiber-cement is dimensionally stable and, unlike wood, doesn't expand and contract with changes in humidity.
It's a good idea to specify top-quality paint. Because only 15% to 20% of the total cost of repainting your house is for materials, using a top-quality paint will add only a nominal amount—about $200—to the job. However, the best paints will outperform "ordinary" paints by several years, saving you money.
Repair brick mortar, stop efflorescence
Crumbling and loose mortar should be removed with a cold chisel and repaired with fresh mortar—a process called repointing. An experienced do-it-yourselfer can repoint mortar joints between bricks, but the process is time-consuming. Depending on the size of the mortar joints (thinner joints are more difficult), a masonry professional will repoint brick siding for $5-$20 per square foot.
Efflorescence—the powdery white residue that sometimes appears on brick and stone surfaces—is the result of soluble salts in the masonry or grout being leached out by moisture, probably indicating the masonry and grout was never sealed correctly. Remove efflorescence by scrubbing it with water and white vinegar mixed in a 50/50 solution and a stiff bristle brush. As soon as the surface is clear and dry, seal it with a quality masonry sealer to prevent further leaching.
Persistent efflorescence may indicate a moisture problem behind the masonry. Consult a professional building or masonry contractor.
Remove mildew from all types of siding
Stubborn black spotty stains are probably mildew. Dab the area with a little diluted bleach—if the black disappears, it's mildew. Clean the area with a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. Wear eye protection and protect plants from splashes. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Repair cracked stucco
Seal cracks and small holes with color-matched exterior acrylic caulk. Try pressing sand into the surface of wet caulk to match the texture of the surrounding stucco. Paint the repair to match.
Take time to inspect and clean your house siding, and you'll be rewarded with a trouble-free exterior.
By: John Riha
John Riha has written six books on home improvement and hundreds of articles on home-related topics. Riha has been a residential builder, the editorial director of the Black & Decker Home Improvement Library, and the executive editor of Better Homes and Gardens magazine. His standard 1968 suburban house has been an ongoing source of maintenance experience.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit our Facebook Page
Visit our Gary Barker Real Estate's Website
Cleaning wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, fiber-cement siding
All types of siding benefit from a good cleaning once every year to remove grit, grime, and mildew. The best way—whether you have wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, or fiber-cement—is with a bucket of warm, soapy water (1/2 cup trisodium phosphate—TSP, available at grocery stores, hardware stores, and home improvement centers—dissolved in 1 gallon of water) and a soft-bristled brush attached to a long handle. Divide your house into 20-foot sections, clean each from top to bottom, and rinse. For two-story homes, you'll be using a ladder, so keep safety foremost.
Cleaning an average-sized house may take you and a friend every bit of a weekend. If you don't have the time—or the inclination—you can have your house professionally cleaned for $300-$500. A professional team will use a power washer and take less than a day.
You can rent a power washer to do the job yourself for about $75 per day, but beware if you don't have experience with the tool. Power washers force water through a nozzle at high pressure, resulting in water blasts that can strip paint, gouge softwoods, loosen caulk, and eat through mortar. Also, the tool can force water under horizontal lap joints, resulting in moisture accumulating behind the siding. A siding professional has the expertise to prevent water penetration at joints, seams around windows and doors, and electrical fixtures.
Inspect for damage
Right before you clean is the ideal time to inspect your house for signs of damage or wear and tear. A house exterior is most vulnerable to water infiltration where siding butts against windows, doors, and corner moldings, says Frank Lesh, a professional house inspector in Chicago and past president of the American Society of Home Inspectors. For all types of siding, look for caulk that has cracked due to age or has pulled away from adjacent surfaces, leaving gaps. Reapply a color-matched exterior caulk during dry days with temperatures in excess of 65 degrees F for maximum adhesion.
Other defects include wood siding with chipped or peeling paint, and cracked boards and trim. If you have a stucco exterior, be on the lookout for cracks and chips. For brick, look for crumbling mortar joints. Repair defects before cleaning. The sooner you make repairs, the better you protect your house from moisture infiltration that can lead to dry rot and mold forming inside your walls.
Repair wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement siding
Damage to wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement horizontal lap siding often occurs because of everyday accidents—being struck by sticks and stones thrown from a lawn mower, or from objects like baseballs. Repairing horizontal lap siding requires the expertise to remove the damaged siding while leaving surrounding siding intact. Unless you have the skills, hire a professional carpenter or siding contractor. Expect to pay $200-$300 to replace one or two damaged siding panels or pieces of wood clapboard.
Repaint wood, fiber-cement
Houses with wood siding should be repainted every five years, or as soon as the paint finish begins to deteriorate. A professional crew will paint a two-story, 2,300 square foot house for $3,000-$5,000. If you've cleaned your house exterior yourself, you've done much of the prep work and will save the added cost that a painting contractor would charge to clean the siding before painting.
Fiber-cement siding, whether it comes with a factory-applied color finish or is conventionally painted, requires repainting far less often (every 8-10 years) than wood siding. That's because fiber-cement is dimensionally stable and, unlike wood, doesn't expand and contract with changes in humidity.
It's a good idea to specify top-quality paint. Because only 15% to 20% of the total cost of repainting your house is for materials, using a top-quality paint will add only a nominal amount—about $200—to the job. However, the best paints will outperform "ordinary" paints by several years, saving you money.
Repair brick mortar, stop efflorescence
Crumbling and loose mortar should be removed with a cold chisel and repaired with fresh mortar—a process called repointing. An experienced do-it-yourselfer can repoint mortar joints between bricks, but the process is time-consuming. Depending on the size of the mortar joints (thinner joints are more difficult), a masonry professional will repoint brick siding for $5-$20 per square foot.
Efflorescence—the powdery white residue that sometimes appears on brick and stone surfaces—is the result of soluble salts in the masonry or grout being leached out by moisture, probably indicating the masonry and grout was never sealed correctly. Remove efflorescence by scrubbing it with water and white vinegar mixed in a 50/50 solution and a stiff bristle brush. As soon as the surface is clear and dry, seal it with a quality masonry sealer to prevent further leaching.
Persistent efflorescence may indicate a moisture problem behind the masonry. Consult a professional building or masonry contractor.
Remove mildew from all types of siding
Stubborn black spotty stains are probably mildew. Dab the area with a little diluted bleach—if the black disappears, it's mildew. Clean the area with a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. Wear eye protection and protect plants from splashes. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Repair cracked stucco
Seal cracks and small holes with color-matched exterior acrylic caulk. Try pressing sand into the surface of wet caulk to match the texture of the surrounding stucco. Paint the repair to match.
Take time to inspect and clean your house siding, and you'll be rewarded with a trouble-free exterior.
By: John Riha
John Riha has written six books on home improvement and hundreds of articles on home-related topics. Riha has been a residential builder, the editorial director of the Black & Decker Home Improvement Library, and the executive editor of Better Homes and Gardens magazine. His standard 1968 suburban house has been an ongoing source of maintenance experience.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit our Facebook Page
Visit our Gary Barker Real Estate's Website
Thursday, November 18, 2010
Median Prices Recover
Trulia is reporting that median sales prices have shown recovery since the low point in August of this year. The market has certainly had a great struggle in the past two years. The chart below shows that the current median sales price has exceeded the February 2008 level. We still have a ways to go to reach the peak of the summer of 2008. Our market still has challenges but it is nice to have some good news.
Please visit my Website: www.gary-barker.com
Please visit my Website: www.gary-barker.com
Monday, November 8, 2010
Chimney Maintenance for Warmth and Safety
Chimney maintenance and a fireplace inspection can make the difference between warm safety and drafty danger
Annual inspections keep flames burning right
Creosote—combustible, tar-like droplets—is a natural byproduct of burning wood. The more wood you burn, the wetter or greener the wood, and the more often you restrict airflow by keeping your fireplace doors closed or your damper barely open, the more creosote is produced.
Soot build-up, while not flammable, can hamper venting. One half-inch of soot can restrict airflow 17% in a masonry chimney and 30% in a factory-built unit, according to the CSIA. Soot is also aggressively acidic and can damage the inside of your chimney.
The more creosote and soot, the more likely you are to see signs of chimney fire—loud popping, dense smoke, or even flames shooting out the top of your chimney into the sky. Chimney fires damage the structure of your chimney and can provide a route for the fire to jump to the frame of your house.
"If the chimney is properly maintained, you'll never have a chimney fire," says Ashley Eldridge, the education director of the CSIA.
The best way to ensure your chimney isn't an oil slick waiting to ignite? Get it inspected.
Three inspection levels let you choose what you need
A level-one inspection includes a visual check of the fireplace and chimney without any special equipment or climbing up on the roof. The inspector comes to your house with a flashlight, looks for damage, obstructions, creosote build-up, and soot, and tells you if you need a sweep. If so, he'll grab his brushes, extension poles, and vacuum, and do it on the spot.
"You should have it inspected every year to determine if it needs to be swept. An annual inspection will also cover you if the neighbor's children have thrown a basketball in it, or a bird has built a nest," says Eldridge.
A level one typically runs about $125. Add a sweep, and you're talking another $80, or about $205 for both services, according to CSIA.
Consider a level-two inspection if you've experienced a dramatic weather event, like a tornado or hurricane; if you've made a major change to your fireplace; or bought a new house. This includes a level-one investigation, plus the inspector's time to visit the roof, attic, and crawl space in search of disrepair. It concludes with a sweep, if necessary, and information on what repair is needed. The price will depend on the situation.
A level three inspection is considered "destructive and intrusive" and can resemble a demolition job. It may involve tearing down and rebuilding walls and your chimney, and is usually done after a chimney fire. The cost will depend on the situation.
Small steps can improve your fireplace's efficiency
Besides the annual sweep, improve your fireplace's functioning with responsible use.
Only burn dry, cured wood—logs that have been split, stacked, and dried for eight to 12 months. Cover your log pile on top, but leave the sides open for air flow. Hardwoods such as hickory, white oak, beech, sugar maple, and white ash burn longest, though dry firewood is more important than the species. Less dense woods like spruce or white pine burn well if sufficiently dry, but you'll need to add more wood to your fire more often, according to CSIA.
Wood, only wood! Crates, lumber, construction scraps, painted wood, or other treated wood releases chemicals into your home, compromising your air quality. Log starters are fine for getting your fire going, but they burn very hot; generally only use one at a time.
Close your damper when not using the fireplace to prevent warm indoor air—and the dollars you're spending to heat it—from rushing up the chimney.
On a factory-built, prefab wood-burning fireplace, keep bifold glass doors open when burning a fire to allow heat to get into the room.
Have a chimney cap installed to prevent objects, rain, and snow from falling into your chimney and to reduce downdrafts. The caps have side vents so smoke escapes. A chimney sweep usually provides and can install a stainless steel cap, which is better than a galvanized metal one available at most home improvement retailers because it won't rust, says Anthony Drago, manager of Ashleigh's Hearth and Home in Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
Replace a poorly sealing damper to prevent heat loss. "You can get a top-mounted damper that functions as a rain cap, too, an improvement over the traditional damper because it provides a tighter closure," says CSIA's Eldridge.
Install carbon monoxide detectors and smoke detectors in your house—near the fireplace as well as in bedroom areas.
If you burn more than three cords of wood annually, get your chimney cleaned twice a year. A cord is 4-feet high, by 4-feet wide, by 8-feet long, or the amount that would fill two full-size pick-up trucks.
To burn fire safely, build it slowly, adding more wood as it heats and keeping your damper completely open to increase draw in the early stages. Burn the fire hot, at least occasionally—with the damper all the way open to help prevent smoke from lingering the fireplace and creosote from developing.
By the way, fireplaces aren't officially rated for energy efficiency because they're so varied. Depending on the source of information, they can be 10% to 30% efficient in converting fuel to heat.
No inspection will turn a masonry or factory-built fireplace into a furnace, but it can improve efficiency somewhat, decrease the amount of heating dollars you're sending up the chimney, and increase your enjoyment of your hearth time by reducing smoke. If a sweeping prevents a chimney fire, you're talking about the difference between another ordinary January day, and the potential loss of your home, or even life.
By: Wendy Paris
Published: August 31, 2009
Wendy Paris is a writer in New York currently living in a home with a very smoky fireplace that has set off the smoke detector more than once. After finishing this article, she decided to schedule a chimney sweep. She's written for This Old House magazine, as well as for The New York Times and Salon.com.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit our Facebook Page
Visit our Gary Barker Real Estate's Website
Annual inspections keep flames burning right
Creosote—combustible, tar-like droplets—is a natural byproduct of burning wood. The more wood you burn, the wetter or greener the wood, and the more often you restrict airflow by keeping your fireplace doors closed or your damper barely open, the more creosote is produced.
Soot build-up, while not flammable, can hamper venting. One half-inch of soot can restrict airflow 17% in a masonry chimney and 30% in a factory-built unit, according to the CSIA. Soot is also aggressively acidic and can damage the inside of your chimney.
The more creosote and soot, the more likely you are to see signs of chimney fire—loud popping, dense smoke, or even flames shooting out the top of your chimney into the sky. Chimney fires damage the structure of your chimney and can provide a route for the fire to jump to the frame of your house.
"If the chimney is properly maintained, you'll never have a chimney fire," says Ashley Eldridge, the education director of the CSIA.
The best way to ensure your chimney isn't an oil slick waiting to ignite? Get it inspected.
Three inspection levels let you choose what you need
A level-one inspection includes a visual check of the fireplace and chimney without any special equipment or climbing up on the roof. The inspector comes to your house with a flashlight, looks for damage, obstructions, creosote build-up, and soot, and tells you if you need a sweep. If so, he'll grab his brushes, extension poles, and vacuum, and do it on the spot.
"You should have it inspected every year to determine if it needs to be swept. An annual inspection will also cover you if the neighbor's children have thrown a basketball in it, or a bird has built a nest," says Eldridge.
A level one typically runs about $125. Add a sweep, and you're talking another $80, or about $205 for both services, according to CSIA.
Consider a level-two inspection if you've experienced a dramatic weather event, like a tornado or hurricane; if you've made a major change to your fireplace; or bought a new house. This includes a level-one investigation, plus the inspector's time to visit the roof, attic, and crawl space in search of disrepair. It concludes with a sweep, if necessary, and information on what repair is needed. The price will depend on the situation.
A level three inspection is considered "destructive and intrusive" and can resemble a demolition job. It may involve tearing down and rebuilding walls and your chimney, and is usually done after a chimney fire. The cost will depend on the situation.
Small steps can improve your fireplace's efficiency
Besides the annual sweep, improve your fireplace's functioning with responsible use.
Only burn dry, cured wood—logs that have been split, stacked, and dried for eight to 12 months. Cover your log pile on top, but leave the sides open for air flow. Hardwoods such as hickory, white oak, beech, sugar maple, and white ash burn longest, though dry firewood is more important than the species. Less dense woods like spruce or white pine burn well if sufficiently dry, but you'll need to add more wood to your fire more often, according to CSIA.
Wood, only wood! Crates, lumber, construction scraps, painted wood, or other treated wood releases chemicals into your home, compromising your air quality. Log starters are fine for getting your fire going, but they burn very hot; generally only use one at a time.
Close your damper when not using the fireplace to prevent warm indoor air—and the dollars you're spending to heat it—from rushing up the chimney.
On a factory-built, prefab wood-burning fireplace, keep bifold glass doors open when burning a fire to allow heat to get into the room.
Have a chimney cap installed to prevent objects, rain, and snow from falling into your chimney and to reduce downdrafts. The caps have side vents so smoke escapes. A chimney sweep usually provides and can install a stainless steel cap, which is better than a galvanized metal one available at most home improvement retailers because it won't rust, says Anthony Drago, manager of Ashleigh's Hearth and Home in Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
Replace a poorly sealing damper to prevent heat loss. "You can get a top-mounted damper that functions as a rain cap, too, an improvement over the traditional damper because it provides a tighter closure," says CSIA's Eldridge.
Install carbon monoxide detectors and smoke detectors in your house—near the fireplace as well as in bedroom areas.
If you burn more than three cords of wood annually, get your chimney cleaned twice a year. A cord is 4-feet high, by 4-feet wide, by 8-feet long, or the amount that would fill two full-size pick-up trucks.
To burn fire safely, build it slowly, adding more wood as it heats and keeping your damper completely open to increase draw in the early stages. Burn the fire hot, at least occasionally—with the damper all the way open to help prevent smoke from lingering the fireplace and creosote from developing.
By the way, fireplaces aren't officially rated for energy efficiency because they're so varied. Depending on the source of information, they can be 10% to 30% efficient in converting fuel to heat.
No inspection will turn a masonry or factory-built fireplace into a furnace, but it can improve efficiency somewhat, decrease the amount of heating dollars you're sending up the chimney, and increase your enjoyment of your hearth time by reducing smoke. If a sweeping prevents a chimney fire, you're talking about the difference between another ordinary January day, and the potential loss of your home, or even life.
By: Wendy Paris
Published: August 31, 2009
Wendy Paris is a writer in New York currently living in a home with a very smoky fireplace that has set off the smoke detector more than once. After finishing this article, she decided to schedule a chimney sweep. She's written for This Old House magazine, as well as for The New York Times and Salon.com.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
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Thursday, November 4, 2010
New Construction Report - Craven County
Home builders marketing is going better than the rest of the market. New construction makes up about a third of the homes sold in the last twelve months. Two years ago builders were having severe troubles. They had inventory that the market was rejecting. Nimble builders such as Frank Crayton, Pat McCullough, and Rick Schepard responded by creating products that the market wanted. Builders sold 288 of the 870 homes sold in the $80,000 to $350,000 range in Craven County. Currently there are 242 new homes on the market. (80 of these are Skysail condos) .Compare these numbers to the total market. See my Blog of November 1,2010. The great new homes that builders produce are often priced below the price of homes that were purchased during the strong market of several years ago. The fact that new homes capture such a large part of the market has hampered the individual trying to sell theirs.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977.
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977.
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Monday, November 1, 2010
Market Review - Craven County - Closed Sales
For this blog I chose to study residential sales closed for the last 12 months. I have limited the study to Craven County sales as reported in the Neuse River Region MLS. I decided to study homes that closed between $80,000 and $350,000. Hopefully that price range gives an accurate picture of our market. I chose to eliminate the luxury market and the very low end. The chart below depicts those sales.
June had the highest number of closings at 114. The lowest month was February with 50 closed. 875 homes in the study sold in the last 12 months. 995 homes in the study profile are currently listed. During the last twelve months 1081 homes entered the market. Assuming that approximately the same number of homes will enter the market this next twelve months, there will be a two year supply of homes available. A home must be superior in features or priced below others to sell. Sellers must be educated in current market conditions. An agent who lists homes for prices that are not likely to sell will harm his relationship with his clients.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977.
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
June had the highest number of closings at 114. The lowest month was February with 50 closed. 875 homes in the study sold in the last 12 months. 995 homes in the study profile are currently listed. During the last twelve months 1081 homes entered the market. Assuming that approximately the same number of homes will enter the market this next twelve months, there will be a two year supply of homes available. A home must be superior in features or priced below others to sell. Sellers must be educated in current market conditions. An agent who lists homes for prices that are not likely to sell will harm his relationship with his clients.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977.
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Due Diligence - New Burdens on Buyer’s Agents
January 1, 2011 our world will change. Sellers, buyers and their agents will have new “Offer to Purchase and Contract” forms. Gone will be the contingencies that have added stress to everyone in a residential transaction. A lot of the members of the Neuse River Region Association of Realtors enjoyed a Continuing Education event with Bill Gallagher ( http://www.superiorschoolnc.com/ ). He taught the group assembled the features of the new contract adopted by NCAR.
The new contract will have a new feature called a “Due Diligence” period. This period resembles an option. It differs in that all of the terms of the final contract are included in one document. With an option the buyer gives notice that he will exercise his rights and contracts to close. With our new contract it will be assumed that a closing will occur. The buyer, in this new contract, will have to notify the seller if they do not plan to close. The buyer will use the diligence period to firm up a loan commitment, obtain an appraisal, perform inspections and determine if they want to proceed. The fee to compensate the buyer for this period of time will apply to the purchase price. Like an option fee it will be nonrefundable. A traditional earnest money deposit becomes “at risk” if this date passes and notice is not given for the buyer to withdraw.
This creates a new burden for Buyer’s Agents. The day of the free “look-see” is over. If the buyer determines that it is in their best interest not to complete the transaction money will be lost. If notice is given during the diligence period the loss will be limited to the “due diligence” fee and other expenses that have been prepaid. If the sale does not close after this period the earnest money will also be lost. Buyers will be unhappy if they lose significant sums of money on an incomplete deal. The competent buyer agent will attempt to assist his client to avoid a transaction that fails. The buyer will need to be educated in a variety of subjects prior to making an offer. Guiding them through the mortgage process will be key. It will be essential to have a pre approval from a lender who closes loans on time. Helping clients obtain and interpret the appropriate inspections will be important. Keeping track of the “Time is of the essence” dates will fall upon the buyers agent. Wisdom will need to be exhibited to avoid beginning a purchase on a property that will create appraisal and inspection problems.
I believe a buyers agent who does a good job will enjoy a greater loyalty from the client. It will be a tense time if the buyer decides to walk and absorb a loss. Over all I believe the new contract will cause our industry to become more professional .
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977.
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
The new contract will have a new feature called a “Due Diligence” period. This period resembles an option. It differs in that all of the terms of the final contract are included in one document. With an option the buyer gives notice that he will exercise his rights and contracts to close. With our new contract it will be assumed that a closing will occur. The buyer, in this new contract, will have to notify the seller if they do not plan to close. The buyer will use the diligence period to firm up a loan commitment, obtain an appraisal, perform inspections and determine if they want to proceed. The fee to compensate the buyer for this period of time will apply to the purchase price. Like an option fee it will be nonrefundable. A traditional earnest money deposit becomes “at risk” if this date passes and notice is not given for the buyer to withdraw.
This creates a new burden for Buyer’s Agents. The day of the free “look-see” is over. If the buyer determines that it is in their best interest not to complete the transaction money will be lost. If notice is given during the diligence period the loss will be limited to the “due diligence” fee and other expenses that have been prepaid. If the sale does not close after this period the earnest money will also be lost. Buyers will be unhappy if they lose significant sums of money on an incomplete deal. The competent buyer agent will attempt to assist his client to avoid a transaction that fails. The buyer will need to be educated in a variety of subjects prior to making an offer. Guiding them through the mortgage process will be key. It will be essential to have a pre approval from a lender who closes loans on time. Helping clients obtain and interpret the appropriate inspections will be important. Keeping track of the “Time is of the essence” dates will fall upon the buyers agent. Wisdom will need to be exhibited to avoid beginning a purchase on a property that will create appraisal and inspection problems.
I believe a buyers agent who does a good job will enjoy a greater loyalty from the client. It will be a tense time if the buyer decides to walk and absorb a loss. Over all I believe the new contract will cause our industry to become more professional .
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977.
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Why did the Master Bedroom move upstairs?
How did it get downstairs?
The New Bern real estate market has always been fairly unique. For most of my career our market demanded a master on the ground floor. We had a variety of ranch and story and a half floor plans. Only the historic or larger homes were truly two story homes. Many of these still had ground floor masters.
Men like Paul Crayton, Guion Lee, Frank Efird, Lonnie Pridgen, Tommy Karam and others put New Bern on the map as a place to retire. Port O’ Pines, later Treasure Cove and then Fairfield Harbour started the great migration. River Bend and Trent Woods began to entice retiring seniors to put down roots in our great community. Soon Weyerhaeuser began Greenbrier and many other areas that increased the flow. The one thing that these buyers required was a ground floor master bedroom. Since the retirees were the driving force of our market, resale potential required others to insist on downstairs accommodations.
Then the bubble burst!
The days of competing offers were over. That nasty pendulum swung from sellers to buyers. Prices began to fall. Our four decade flow of retirees stopped. They were no longer ready to sell their homes at post bubble prices and move. Sales of existing homes were much lower than the prices contractors needed to produce the designs they had been building. For years builders had been adding the features that made their homes superior to competitors and older homes. Buyers paid the price because the homes were going up in value and inflation would cover the expense with future gains.
A new design was needed.
It was necessary for builders to build more efficiently. Most spent hours designing, estimating and redesigning floor plans. The result has been two story homes with tuck under garages. These plans lower the price by having an upstairs master. The current driving force in the New Bern market are people who are moving here for jobs. I see Marines, Sailors, hospital employees, manufacturer workers, educators, and service job workers. Most are younger with children. Many mothers want the baby and younger ones in a room that is close. They have been quick to accept having all the bedrooms on the second floor. Builders have found that this new type of plan can be built for a lower price than many are asking for the resale of existing pre bubble burst homes. Younger buyers have consistently chosen space over features and curb appeal.
Will the master bedroom move back downstairs?
The answer is yes. When retirees accept the new reality of the housing market and find that continuing to wait to move is unacceptable, we will see them again. They will again demand a downstairs master. This will create struggles for our appraiser friends. Comparing homes of the same amount of square feet of heated space, you will find that the one with the downstairs master will cost between $8,000 to $12,000 more. Unless the appraiser recognizes the value of that feature it will be difficult to cover a downstairs master bed room home‘s cost. The cost of a garage area that is not tucked under is also much higher.
The adept builder will recognize when retirees again begin to drive the market. When that day arrives the master bedroom will move back downstairs.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
The New Bern real estate market has always been fairly unique. For most of my career our market demanded a master on the ground floor. We had a variety of ranch and story and a half floor plans. Only the historic or larger homes were truly two story homes. Many of these still had ground floor masters.
Men like Paul Crayton, Guion Lee, Frank Efird, Lonnie Pridgen, Tommy Karam and others put New Bern on the map as a place to retire. Port O’ Pines, later Treasure Cove and then Fairfield Harbour started the great migration. River Bend and Trent Woods began to entice retiring seniors to put down roots in our great community. Soon Weyerhaeuser began Greenbrier and many other areas that increased the flow. The one thing that these buyers required was a ground floor master bedroom. Since the retirees were the driving force of our market, resale potential required others to insist on downstairs accommodations.
Then the bubble burst!
The days of competing offers were over. That nasty pendulum swung from sellers to buyers. Prices began to fall. Our four decade flow of retirees stopped. They were no longer ready to sell their homes at post bubble prices and move. Sales of existing homes were much lower than the prices contractors needed to produce the designs they had been building. For years builders had been adding the features that made their homes superior to competitors and older homes. Buyers paid the price because the homes were going up in value and inflation would cover the expense with future gains.
A new design was needed.
It was necessary for builders to build more efficiently. Most spent hours designing, estimating and redesigning floor plans. The result has been two story homes with tuck under garages. These plans lower the price by having an upstairs master. The current driving force in the New Bern market are people who are moving here for jobs. I see Marines, Sailors, hospital employees, manufacturer workers, educators, and service job workers. Most are younger with children. Many mothers want the baby and younger ones in a room that is close. They have been quick to accept having all the bedrooms on the second floor. Builders have found that this new type of plan can be built for a lower price than many are asking for the resale of existing pre bubble burst homes. Younger buyers have consistently chosen space over features and curb appeal.
Will the master bedroom move back downstairs?
The answer is yes. When retirees accept the new reality of the housing market and find that continuing to wait to move is unacceptable, we will see them again. They will again demand a downstairs master. This will create struggles for our appraiser friends. Comparing homes of the same amount of square feet of heated space, you will find that the one with the downstairs master will cost between $8,000 to $12,000 more. Unless the appraiser recognizes the value of that feature it will be difficult to cover a downstairs master bed room home‘s cost. The cost of a garage area that is not tucked under is also much higher.
The adept builder will recognize when retirees again begin to drive the market. When that day arrives the master bedroom will move back downstairs.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Friday, October 22, 2010
Listing Prices have fallen
Trulia reports that listing prices have fallen in the last three weeks.
Sellers are competing for a limited number of buyers. The lower listing price helps insure that their home will be shown more often. Local Realtors are working hard to get their clients home sold. They realize that more homes are on the market than it will absorb. Proper pricing and well placed advertising will get the job done.
Sellers would be well advised to have their Realtor show them how many homes sold in their price range in the last 120 days. Compare those numbers to homes listed in the same price range. Together they can decide on the proper course.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Sellers are competing for a limited number of buyers. The lower listing price helps insure that their home will be shown more often. Local Realtors are working hard to get their clients home sold. They realize that more homes are on the market than it will absorb. Proper pricing and well placed advertising will get the job done.
Sellers would be well advised to have their Realtor show them how many homes sold in their price range in the last 120 days. Compare those numbers to homes listed in the same price range. Together they can decide on the proper course.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Thursday, October 21, 2010
Buying and Storing Firewood
Knowing how to evaluate, buy, and store firewood is key to the safe, efficient operation of your fireplace, wood stove, or fireplace insert.
Before picking up the phone, it’s important to know exactly what you want to purchase so that you can clearly express that to the wood seller, says Matt Galambos, a Maine arborist certified by the International Society of Arboriculture. This includes determining the quantity, species, and condition of the firewood, all of which affect its price.
How much to buy
Homeowners who intend to heat their homes through the use of a wood stove naturally will require more firewood than those who burn only the occasional fire for pleasure. A person living in the Northeastern U.S. who burns firewood as his or her primary heat source, for example, may require up to five cords of wood to get them through the season. In contrast, a weekend-only fire builder can likely get by on as little as a half-cord. Galambos estimates that for the casual but steady fire builder, one cord of wood should easily last through winter.
Measuring a cord of wood
A cord of wood is defined as a stack of cut firewood that measures 4 feet tall by 4 feet wide by 8 feet long, or any other arrangement that equals 128 cubic feet. The individual pieces must be stacked side by side rather than the looser crisscross style. Other measurement terms, such as ricks, racks, face cords and piles, have no legal meaning and are often banned by state weights and measurements agencies. Regardless what the load is called, says Galambos, it should always be converted to cords or fractions thereof so that homeowners can determine if they are getting a fair price.
Seasoning the wood
Freshly cut wood is composed largely of water. Not only is this “green” wood difficult to ignite, but burning it can lead to a dangerous buildup of creosote, the cause of chimney fires. Properly “seasoned” firewood is wood that has been cut to length, split, and allowed to air dry for at least six months until the moisture content dips to around 20%. Dry wood will appear grayish in color and the pieces will begin to exhibit splits and cracks on the ends. Compared to freshly cut wood, seasoned wood feels light for its size.
Though seasoned firewood is the only choice for immediate use, green wood shouldn't be completely ignored, says Galambos. “If you have the room to store it and the time to dry it, buying green firewood can save you up to 25% compared with seasoned wood,” he says.
Hardwood vs. softwood
It's a common misconception that burning soft woods, such as pine and cedar, leads to dangerous creosote buildup. As long as the firewood is properly seasoned, it can safely be burned in a fireplace or stove regardless of species, says Dr. John Ball, Professor of Forestry at South Dakota State University. But that doesn’t mean that all wood is created equal.
“Tree species differ widely in the amount of heat they produce when burned,” says Ball. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and madrone produce almost twice the heat compared with softer woods, such as spruce, pine, and basswood. Fires built with hardwood not only burn hotter, they last longer, meaning the wood pile won’t get depleted as fast. Homeowners can expect to pay a premium for 100% hardwood, but Ball cautions against purchasing cheaper “mixed-wood” loads that may contain little actual hardwood.
Storing firewood
Homeowners should consider storage long before the firewood delivery truck appears in the driveway, cautions Galambos. A cord of wood takes up a significant amount of space, and if not properly stored your investment will quickly begin to rot. Firewood that is not stowed in a protected space like a garage or shed needs to be six inches off the ground. Firewood racks or simple pallets work well. If exposed to the elements, the wood pile should be at least partially covered with a waterproof tarp. Experts caution against storing the wood too close to the house for fear of inviting pests.
Average prices
Homeowners can expect to pay $75 to $150 for a half-cord and between $150 and $350 for a cord of hardwood delivered and stacked. To save some money, a person with a large truck may elect to pick up his or her own load at the wood lot.
To verify the quantity, species, and condition of the firewood, it's wise to arrange the delivery for a time when you're home. Experts say, inspect the wood for type and condition before it's unloaded, though quantity can only be accurately measured after it's stacked.
Maximize your fireplace efficiency
It’s true that a traditional wood fireplace can never rival the energy efficiency of a wood stove or even a fireplace insert, but there are ways a homeowner can trim heat loss. Fire-resistant glass doors not only reduce the volume of heated home air that escapes up the chimney, they help radiate heat back into the room. Similarly, a thick cast-iron fireback is an old-fashioned device that absorbs and emits energy in the form of radiant heat. Check the fireplace damper for leaks and always tightly seal it when the fireplace is idle.
Note about invasive pests
Forestry experts like Dr. John Ball strongly encourage homeowners to buy only local wood (wood from within a one- or two-county range) to prevent the spread of pests like the Asian longhorned beetle and emerald ash borer.
By: Douglas Trattner
Douglas Trattner has written extensively about home improvement topics for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain Dealer. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he estimates that he burned through 15 cords of wood. Most, he promises, was properly seasoned hardwood.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
.
Before picking up the phone, it’s important to know exactly what you want to purchase so that you can clearly express that to the wood seller, says Matt Galambos, a Maine arborist certified by the International Society of Arboriculture. This includes determining the quantity, species, and condition of the firewood, all of which affect its price.
How much to buy
Homeowners who intend to heat their homes through the use of a wood stove naturally will require more firewood than those who burn only the occasional fire for pleasure. A person living in the Northeastern U.S. who burns firewood as his or her primary heat source, for example, may require up to five cords of wood to get them through the season. In contrast, a weekend-only fire builder can likely get by on as little as a half-cord. Galambos estimates that for the casual but steady fire builder, one cord of wood should easily last through winter.
Measuring a cord of wood
A cord of wood is defined as a stack of cut firewood that measures 4 feet tall by 4 feet wide by 8 feet long, or any other arrangement that equals 128 cubic feet. The individual pieces must be stacked side by side rather than the looser crisscross style. Other measurement terms, such as ricks, racks, face cords and piles, have no legal meaning and are often banned by state weights and measurements agencies. Regardless what the load is called, says Galambos, it should always be converted to cords or fractions thereof so that homeowners can determine if they are getting a fair price.
Seasoning the wood
Freshly cut wood is composed largely of water. Not only is this “green” wood difficult to ignite, but burning it can lead to a dangerous buildup of creosote, the cause of chimney fires. Properly “seasoned” firewood is wood that has been cut to length, split, and allowed to air dry for at least six months until the moisture content dips to around 20%. Dry wood will appear grayish in color and the pieces will begin to exhibit splits and cracks on the ends. Compared to freshly cut wood, seasoned wood feels light for its size.
Though seasoned firewood is the only choice for immediate use, green wood shouldn't be completely ignored, says Galambos. “If you have the room to store it and the time to dry it, buying green firewood can save you up to 25% compared with seasoned wood,” he says.
Hardwood vs. softwood
It's a common misconception that burning soft woods, such as pine and cedar, leads to dangerous creosote buildup. As long as the firewood is properly seasoned, it can safely be burned in a fireplace or stove regardless of species, says Dr. John Ball, Professor of Forestry at South Dakota State University. But that doesn’t mean that all wood is created equal.
“Tree species differ widely in the amount of heat they produce when burned,” says Ball. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and madrone produce almost twice the heat compared with softer woods, such as spruce, pine, and basswood. Fires built with hardwood not only burn hotter, they last longer, meaning the wood pile won’t get depleted as fast. Homeowners can expect to pay a premium for 100% hardwood, but Ball cautions against purchasing cheaper “mixed-wood” loads that may contain little actual hardwood.
Storing firewood
Homeowners should consider storage long before the firewood delivery truck appears in the driveway, cautions Galambos. A cord of wood takes up a significant amount of space, and if not properly stored your investment will quickly begin to rot. Firewood that is not stowed in a protected space like a garage or shed needs to be six inches off the ground. Firewood racks or simple pallets work well. If exposed to the elements, the wood pile should be at least partially covered with a waterproof tarp. Experts caution against storing the wood too close to the house for fear of inviting pests.
Average prices
Homeowners can expect to pay $75 to $150 for a half-cord and between $150 and $350 for a cord of hardwood delivered and stacked. To save some money, a person with a large truck may elect to pick up his or her own load at the wood lot.
To verify the quantity, species, and condition of the firewood, it's wise to arrange the delivery for a time when you're home. Experts say, inspect the wood for type and condition before it's unloaded, though quantity can only be accurately measured after it's stacked.
Maximize your fireplace efficiency
It’s true that a traditional wood fireplace can never rival the energy efficiency of a wood stove or even a fireplace insert, but there are ways a homeowner can trim heat loss. Fire-resistant glass doors not only reduce the volume of heated home air that escapes up the chimney, they help radiate heat back into the room. Similarly, a thick cast-iron fireback is an old-fashioned device that absorbs and emits energy in the form of radiant heat. Check the fireplace damper for leaks and always tightly seal it when the fireplace is idle.
Note about invasive pests
Forestry experts like Dr. John Ball strongly encourage homeowners to buy only local wood (wood from within a one- or two-county range) to prevent the spread of pests like the Asian longhorned beetle and emerald ash borer.
By: Douglas Trattner
Douglas Trattner has written extensively about home improvement topics for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain Dealer. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he estimates that he burned through 15 cords of wood. Most, he promises, was properly seasoned hardwood.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
.
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Find the Home Loan that Fits Your Needs
Understand which mortgage loan is best for you so your budget is not stretched too thin.
The basics of mortgage financing
The most important features of your mortgage loan are its term and interest rate. Mortgages typically come in 15-, 20-, 30- or 40-year lengths. The longer the term, the lower your monthly payment. However, the tradeoff for a lower payment is that the longer the life of your loan, the more interest you’ll pay.
Mortgage interest rates generally come in two flavors: fixed and adjustable. A fixed rate allows you to lock in your interest rate for the entire mortgage term. That’s attractive if you’re risk-averse, on a fixed income, or when interest rates are low.
The risks and rewards of ARMs
An adjustable-rate mortgage does just what its name implies: Its interest rate adjusts at a future date listed in the loan documents. It moves up and down according to a particular financial market index, such as Treasury bills. A 3/1 ARM will have the same interest rate for three years and then adjust every year after that; likewise a 5/1 ARM remains unchanged until the five-year mark. Typically, ARMs include a cap on how much the interest rate can increase, such as 3% at each adjustment, or 5% over the life of the loan.
Why agree to such uncertainty? ARMs can be a good choice if you expect your income to grow significantly in the coming years. The interest rate on some—but not all—ARMs can even drop if the benchmark to which they’re tied also dips. ARMs also often offer a lower interest rate than fixed-rate mortgages during the first few years of the mortgage, which means big savings for you—even if there’s only a half-point difference.
But if rates go up, your ARM payment will jump dramatically, so before you choose an ARM, answer these questions:
How much can my monthly payments increase at each adjustment?
How soon and how often can increases occur?
Can I afford the maximum increase permitted?
Do I expect my income to increase or decrease?
Am I paying down my loan balance each month, or is it staying the same or even increasing?
Do I plan to own the home for longer than the initial low-interest-rate period, or do I plan to sell before the rate adjusts?
Will I have to pay a penalty if I refinance into a lower-rate mortgage or sell my house?
What’s my goal in buying this property? Am I considering a riskier mortgage to buy a more expensive house than I can realistically afford?
Consider a government-backed mortgage loan
If you’ve saved less than the ideal downpayment of 20%, or your credit score isn’t high enough for you to qualify for a fixed-rate or ARM with a conventional lender, consider a government-backed loan from the Federal Housing Administration or Department of Veterans Affairs.
FHA offers adjustable and fixed-rate loans at reduced interest rates and with as little as 3.5% down and VA offers no-money-down loans. FHA and VA also let you use cash gifts from family members.
Before you decide on any mortgage, remember that slight variations in interest rates, loan amounts, and terms can significantly affect your monthly payment. To determine how much your monthly payment will be with various terms and loan amounts, try REALTOR.com’s online mortgage calculators.
By: G. M. Filisko
G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who’s opted for both fixed and adjustable-rate mortgages. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
© Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit my website www.gary-barker.com
The basics of mortgage financing
The most important features of your mortgage loan are its term and interest rate. Mortgages typically come in 15-, 20-, 30- or 40-year lengths. The longer the term, the lower your monthly payment. However, the tradeoff for a lower payment is that the longer the life of your loan, the more interest you’ll pay.
Mortgage interest rates generally come in two flavors: fixed and adjustable. A fixed rate allows you to lock in your interest rate for the entire mortgage term. That’s attractive if you’re risk-averse, on a fixed income, or when interest rates are low.
The risks and rewards of ARMs
An adjustable-rate mortgage does just what its name implies: Its interest rate adjusts at a future date listed in the loan documents. It moves up and down according to a particular financial market index, such as Treasury bills. A 3/1 ARM will have the same interest rate for three years and then adjust every year after that; likewise a 5/1 ARM remains unchanged until the five-year mark. Typically, ARMs include a cap on how much the interest rate can increase, such as 3% at each adjustment, or 5% over the life of the loan.
Why agree to such uncertainty? ARMs can be a good choice if you expect your income to grow significantly in the coming years. The interest rate on some—but not all—ARMs can even drop if the benchmark to which they’re tied also dips. ARMs also often offer a lower interest rate than fixed-rate mortgages during the first few years of the mortgage, which means big savings for you—even if there’s only a half-point difference.
But if rates go up, your ARM payment will jump dramatically, so before you choose an ARM, answer these questions:
How much can my monthly payments increase at each adjustment?
How soon and how often can increases occur?
Can I afford the maximum increase permitted?
Do I expect my income to increase or decrease?
Am I paying down my loan balance each month, or is it staying the same or even increasing?
Do I plan to own the home for longer than the initial low-interest-rate period, or do I plan to sell before the rate adjusts?
Will I have to pay a penalty if I refinance into a lower-rate mortgage or sell my house?
What’s my goal in buying this property? Am I considering a riskier mortgage to buy a more expensive house than I can realistically afford?
Consider a government-backed mortgage loan
If you’ve saved less than the ideal downpayment of 20%, or your credit score isn’t high enough for you to qualify for a fixed-rate or ARM with a conventional lender, consider a government-backed loan from the Federal Housing Administration or Department of Veterans Affairs.
FHA offers adjustable and fixed-rate loans at reduced interest rates and with as little as 3.5% down and VA offers no-money-down loans. FHA and VA also let you use cash gifts from family members.
Before you decide on any mortgage, remember that slight variations in interest rates, loan amounts, and terms can significantly affect your monthly payment. To determine how much your monthly payment will be with various terms and loan amounts, try REALTOR.com’s online mortgage calculators.
By: G. M. Filisko
G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who’s opted for both fixed and adjustable-rate mortgages. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
© Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit my website www.gary-barker.com
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
8 Tips for Finding Your New Home
A solid game plan can help you narrow your homebuying search to find the best home for you.
1. Know thyself
Understand the type of home that suits your personality. Do you prefer a new or existing home? A ranch or a multistory home? If you’re leaning toward a fixer-upper, are you truly handy, or will you need to budget for contractors?
2. Research before you look
List the features you most want in a home and identify which are necessities and which are extras. Identify three to four neighborhoods you’d like to live in based on commute time, schools, recreation, crime, and price. Then hop onto REALTOR.com to get a feel for the homes available in your price range in your favorite neighborhoods. Use the results to prioritize your wants and needs so you can add in and weed out properties from the inventory you’d like to view.
3. Get your finances in order
Generally, lenders say you can afford a home priced two to three times your gross income. Create a budget so you know how much you’re comfortable spending each month on housing. Don’t wait until you’ve found a home and made an offer to investigate financing. Gather your financial records and meet with a lender to get a prequalification letter spelling out how much you’re eligible to borrow. The lender won’t necessarily consider the extra fees you’ll pay when you purchase or your plans to begin a family or purchase a new car, so shop in a price range you’re comfortable with. Also, presenting an offer contingent on financing will make your bid less attractive to sellers.
4. Set a moving timeline
Do you have blemishes on your credit that will take time to clear up? If you already own, have you sold your current home? If not, you’ll need to factor in the time needed to sell. If you rent, when is your lease up? Do you expect interest rates to jump anytime soon? All these factors will affect your buying, closing, and moving timelines.
5. Think long term
Your future plans may dictate the type of home you’ll buy. Are you looking for a starter house with plans to move up in a few years, or do you hope to stay in the home for five to 10 years? With a starter, you may need to adjust your expectations. If you plan to nest, be sure your priority list helps you identify a home you’ll still love years from now.
6. Work with a REALTOR®
Ask people you trust for referrals to a real estate professional they trust. Interview agents to determine which have expertise in the neighborhoods and type of homes you’re interested in. Because homebuying triggers many emotions, consider whether an agent’s style meshes with your personality. Also ask if the agent specializes in buyer representation. Unlike listing agents, whose first duty is to the seller, buyers’ reps work only for you even though they’re typically paid by the seller. Finally, check whether agents are REALTORS®, which means they’re members of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. NAR has been a champion of homeownership rights for more than a century.
7. Be realistic
It’s OK to be picky about the home and neighborhood you want, but don’t be close-minded, unrealistic, or blinded by minor imperfections. If you insist on living in a cul-de-sac, you may miss out on great homes on streets that are just as quiet and secluded. On the flip side, don’t be so swayed by a “wow” feature that you forget about other issues—like noise levels—that can have a big impact on your quality of life. Use your priority list to evaluate each property, remembering there’s no such thing as the perfect home.
8. Limit the opinions you solicit
It’s natural to seek reassurance when making a big financial decision. But you know that saying about too many cooks in the kitchen. If you need a second opinion, select one or two people. But remain true to your list of wants and needs so the final decision is based on criteria you’ve identified as important.
By: G. M. Filisko
G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who has found happiness in a brownstone in a historic Chicago neighborhood. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics
<><><><><>Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Visit my website www.gary-barker.com
1. Know thyself
Understand the type of home that suits your personality. Do you prefer a new or existing home? A ranch or a multistory home? If you’re leaning toward a fixer-upper, are you truly handy, or will you need to budget for contractors?
2. Research before you look
List the features you most want in a home and identify which are necessities and which are extras. Identify three to four neighborhoods you’d like to live in based on commute time, schools, recreation, crime, and price. Then hop onto REALTOR.com to get a feel for the homes available in your price range in your favorite neighborhoods. Use the results to prioritize your wants and needs so you can add in and weed out properties from the inventory you’d like to view.
3. Get your finances in order
Generally, lenders say you can afford a home priced two to three times your gross income. Create a budget so you know how much you’re comfortable spending each month on housing. Don’t wait until you’ve found a home and made an offer to investigate financing. Gather your financial records and meet with a lender to get a prequalification letter spelling out how much you’re eligible to borrow. The lender won’t necessarily consider the extra fees you’ll pay when you purchase or your plans to begin a family or purchase a new car, so shop in a price range you’re comfortable with. Also, presenting an offer contingent on financing will make your bid less attractive to sellers.
4. Set a moving timeline
Do you have blemishes on your credit that will take time to clear up? If you already own, have you sold your current home? If not, you’ll need to factor in the time needed to sell. If you rent, when is your lease up? Do you expect interest rates to jump anytime soon? All these factors will affect your buying, closing, and moving timelines.
5. Think long term
Your future plans may dictate the type of home you’ll buy. Are you looking for a starter house with plans to move up in a few years, or do you hope to stay in the home for five to 10 years? With a starter, you may need to adjust your expectations. If you plan to nest, be sure your priority list helps you identify a home you’ll still love years from now.
6. Work with a REALTOR®
Ask people you trust for referrals to a real estate professional they trust. Interview agents to determine which have expertise in the neighborhoods and type of homes you’re interested in. Because homebuying triggers many emotions, consider whether an agent’s style meshes with your personality. Also ask if the agent specializes in buyer representation. Unlike listing agents, whose first duty is to the seller, buyers’ reps work only for you even though they’re typically paid by the seller. Finally, check whether agents are REALTORS®, which means they’re members of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. NAR has been a champion of homeownership rights for more than a century.
7. Be realistic
It’s OK to be picky about the home and neighborhood you want, but don’t be close-minded, unrealistic, or blinded by minor imperfections. If you insist on living in a cul-de-sac, you may miss out on great homes on streets that are just as quiet and secluded. On the flip side, don’t be so swayed by a “wow” feature that you forget about other issues—like noise levels—that can have a big impact on your quality of life. Use your priority list to evaluate each property, remembering there’s no such thing as the perfect home.
8. Limit the opinions you solicit
It’s natural to seek reassurance when making a big financial decision. But you know that saying about too many cooks in the kitchen. If you need a second opinion, select one or two people. But remain true to your list of wants and needs so the final decision is based on criteria you’ve identified as important.
By: G. M. Filisko
G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who has found happiness in a brownstone in a historic Chicago neighborhood. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Property Owners Associations - Good or Evil?
I suppose the answer to the title question depends upon your view. Will you give up some personal freedom to protect your properties value? If you want to have the old Chevy sitting in the front yard on cement blocks and thirteen hounds under the porch guarding it, a POA is not for you.
One of the benefits of a POA is collective bargaining. In one subdivision that I sell the POA does all of the mowing and edging. The cost is about 40% of having a lawn service do it. Of course if you want to maintain your own equipment and provide your own labor you can do it cheaper.
Another benefit is the enforcement of restrictive covenants to help protect your interest. Covenants control the appearance and use of adjoining properties.
What happens if you live in a subdivision with a POA and a neighbor violates the covenants? Once notified the board of directors of the POA will pursue the matter for your benefit. If it becomes necessary they will spend POA funds to hire an attorney to seek relief from the courts.
Suppose you live in a subdivision with restrictive covenants but without a property owner’s association. Enforcement will fall to an owner who decides the violation damages his interest sufficiently to require action. You will experience the stress of confronting your neighbor. Should you need to go to court the attorney will ask you to write a big check. Most won’t do that. Once restrictions are allowed to be violated without challenge they become almost impossible to enforce later. An active Property Owners Association can help continued enforcement of covenants.
Before purchasing check to see if the subdivision has a POA and the fees it charges. You need to determine if the Association’s goals and values line up with yours. If there isn’t association you need to weigh the risk and cost of enforcing covenants on your own. What freedoms will you sacrifice to protect the very large investment your home represents?
Property Owners Associations - Good or Evil? Only you can decide.
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Negotiate your best house buy
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Negotiate Your Best House Buy
Keep your emotions in check and your eyes on the goal, and you’ll pay less when purchasing a home. Read
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Why Move Up Now?
Should I move up to a better home now?
Now is the time. While most properties have decreased in value, consider this scenario. You live in a home that was worth $150,000. and is now worth $135,000. You will notice that $15,000 of equity was lost. Now consider the home in which you might wish to live. It use to be worth $250,000. Now it has a value of $225,000. It has moved downward $25,000. If purchased you have benefited by $10,000. Eventually when property values recover your benefit will be $25,000 while if you stayed your recovery will be $15,000.
How would it work?
You may be thinking, that may be fine, but will my home sell? The answer is yes. Homes sell, even today, if priced correctly and advertised properly. The services of a highly skilled Realtor is required. This means pricing your home where it will attract the attention of a buyer. Does this mean that I have to sell at $135,00? Yes but the good news is you don't have to accept an offer that is to low. Once you have accepted an offer you can go shopping. There are plenty of motivated sellers of properties. Your Realtor Buyer's Agent will help you to get a fantastic buy on a home that you will enjoy.
What if the market doesn't recover?
I don't believe this. Which home would you enjoy living in for the next 10 years? Most people can get a mortgage at a lower interest rate for a new purchase than the one they currently have. Would you prefer to pay a lower interest rate long term? I believe that we will experience inflation at some period in the future. Inflation devalues the dollar. The only way the country can pay back its debt is to inflate the value of new products and services by deflated the value of the dollar. If this thesis holds true, your dollars value will decrease and your home value will increase.
Don't wait. Now is the time.
Visit my website www.gary-barker.com
Now is the time. While most properties have decreased in value, consider this scenario. You live in a home that was worth $150,000. and is now worth $135,000. You will notice that $15,000 of equity was lost. Now consider the home in which you might wish to live. It use to be worth $250,000. Now it has a value of $225,000. It has moved downward $25,000. If purchased you have benefited by $10,000. Eventually when property values recover your benefit will be $25,000 while if you stayed your recovery will be $15,000.
How would it work?
You may be thinking, that may be fine, but will my home sell? The answer is yes. Homes sell, even today, if priced correctly and advertised properly. The services of a highly skilled Realtor is required. This means pricing your home where it will attract the attention of a buyer. Does this mean that I have to sell at $135,00? Yes but the good news is you don't have to accept an offer that is to low. Once you have accepted an offer you can go shopping. There are plenty of motivated sellers of properties. Your Realtor Buyer's Agent will help you to get a fantastic buy on a home that you will enjoy.
What if the market doesn't recover?
I don't believe this. Which home would you enjoy living in for the next 10 years? Most people can get a mortgage at a lower interest rate for a new purchase than the one they currently have. Would you prefer to pay a lower interest rate long term? I believe that we will experience inflation at some period in the future. Inflation devalues the dollar. The only way the country can pay back its debt is to inflate the value of new products and services by deflated the value of the dollar. If this thesis holds true, your dollars value will decrease and your home value will increase.
Don't wait. Now is the time.
Visit my website www.gary-barker.com
Friday, September 24, 2010
Water Heater Maintenance
Appliance Maintenance: Water Heaters
Keep your water heater running efficiently and reliably with this simple maintenance routine. Read
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit our Website www.gary-barker.com
Monday, September 20, 2010
Save money with energy-efficient window coverings
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Save Money with Energy-Efficient Window Coverings
Energy-efficient window coverings help reduce heating and cooling costs and may qualify for the federal energy tax credit. Read
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Tax Credits for Insulation
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Tax Credits for Adding or Replacing Insulation
A federal tax credit makes adding insulation an even cheaper way to improve your home’s energy efficiency and cut your heating and cooling bills. Read
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
For other great info visit gary-barker.com
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Seal Air Leaks Around the House
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8 Easy Ways to Seal Air Leaks Around the House
For what the typical family wastes every year on air leaks—about $350—you can plug energy-robbing gaps, start saving money, and enjoy a more comfortable home. Read
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Tax Credit for Replacing Heating and Cooling Systems
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Tax Credits for Replacing Heating and Cooling Systems
Upgrading to an energy-efficient heating and cooling system can save hundreds on your utility bills and earn you a tax credit worth as much as $1,500. Read
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit our website www.gary-barker.com
Pricing your home to sell.
Visit our Website www.gary-barker.com
How to Use Comparable Sales to Price Your Home
Before you put your home up for sale, use the right comparable sales to find the perfect price. Read
Listing and Selling Your Green Home
If you want to get the full value for your green home when it comes time to sell, use a green real estate agent and a green MLS. Read
Make Your House FHA-Loan Friendly
Know the basics of FHA loan rules and you stand a better chance of selling your house or condo. Read
6 Reasons to Reduce Your Home Price
While you’d like to get the best price for your home, consider our six reasons to reduce your home price.
Read
5 Tips to Prepare Your Home for Sale
Working to get your home ship-shape for showings will increase its value and shorten your sales time. Read
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
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