January 1, 2011 our world will change. Sellers, buyers and their agents will have new “Offer to Purchase and Contract” forms. Gone will be the contingencies that have added stress to everyone in a residential transaction. A lot of the members of the Neuse River Region Association of Realtors enjoyed a Continuing Education event with Bill Gallagher ( http://www.superiorschoolnc.com/ ). He taught the group assembled the features of the new contract adopted by NCAR.
The new contract will have a new feature called a “Due Diligence” period. This period resembles an option. It differs in that all of the terms of the final contract are included in one document. With an option the buyer gives notice that he will exercise his rights and contracts to close. With our new contract it will be assumed that a closing will occur. The buyer, in this new contract, will have to notify the seller if they do not plan to close. The buyer will use the diligence period to firm up a loan commitment, obtain an appraisal, perform inspections and determine if they want to proceed. The fee to compensate the buyer for this period of time will apply to the purchase price. Like an option fee it will be nonrefundable. A traditional earnest money deposit becomes “at risk” if this date passes and notice is not given for the buyer to withdraw.
This creates a new burden for Buyer’s Agents. The day of the free “look-see” is over. If the buyer determines that it is in their best interest not to complete the transaction money will be lost. If notice is given during the diligence period the loss will be limited to the “due diligence” fee and other expenses that have been prepaid. If the sale does not close after this period the earnest money will also be lost. Buyers will be unhappy if they lose significant sums of money on an incomplete deal. The competent buyer agent will attempt to assist his client to avoid a transaction that fails. The buyer will need to be educated in a variety of subjects prior to making an offer. Guiding them through the mortgage process will be key. It will be essential to have a pre approval from a lender who closes loans on time. Helping clients obtain and interpret the appropriate inspections will be important. Keeping track of the “Time is of the essence” dates will fall upon the buyers agent. Wisdom will need to be exhibited to avoid beginning a purchase on a property that will create appraisal and inspection problems.
I believe a buyers agent who does a good job will enjoy a greater loyalty from the client. It will be a tense time if the buyer decides to walk and absorb a loss. Over all I believe the new contract will cause our industry to become more professional .
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977.
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
A Blog to provide information to buyers and sellers of real estate.
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Why did the Master Bedroom move upstairs?
How did it get downstairs?
The New Bern real estate market has always been fairly unique. For most of my career our market demanded a master on the ground floor. We had a variety of ranch and story and a half floor plans. Only the historic or larger homes were truly two story homes. Many of these still had ground floor masters.
Men like Paul Crayton, Guion Lee, Frank Efird, Lonnie Pridgen, Tommy Karam and others put New Bern on the map as a place to retire. Port O’ Pines, later Treasure Cove and then Fairfield Harbour started the great migration. River Bend and Trent Woods began to entice retiring seniors to put down roots in our great community. Soon Weyerhaeuser began Greenbrier and many other areas that increased the flow. The one thing that these buyers required was a ground floor master bedroom. Since the retirees were the driving force of our market, resale potential required others to insist on downstairs accommodations.
Then the bubble burst!
The days of competing offers were over. That nasty pendulum swung from sellers to buyers. Prices began to fall. Our four decade flow of retirees stopped. They were no longer ready to sell their homes at post bubble prices and move. Sales of existing homes were much lower than the prices contractors needed to produce the designs they had been building. For years builders had been adding the features that made their homes superior to competitors and older homes. Buyers paid the price because the homes were going up in value and inflation would cover the expense with future gains.
A new design was needed.
It was necessary for builders to build more efficiently. Most spent hours designing, estimating and redesigning floor plans. The result has been two story homes with tuck under garages. These plans lower the price by having an upstairs master. The current driving force in the New Bern market are people who are moving here for jobs. I see Marines, Sailors, hospital employees, manufacturer workers, educators, and service job workers. Most are younger with children. Many mothers want the baby and younger ones in a room that is close. They have been quick to accept having all the bedrooms on the second floor. Builders have found that this new type of plan can be built for a lower price than many are asking for the resale of existing pre bubble burst homes. Younger buyers have consistently chosen space over features and curb appeal.
Will the master bedroom move back downstairs?
The answer is yes. When retirees accept the new reality of the housing market and find that continuing to wait to move is unacceptable, we will see them again. They will again demand a downstairs master. This will create struggles for our appraiser friends. Comparing homes of the same amount of square feet of heated space, you will find that the one with the downstairs master will cost between $8,000 to $12,000 more. Unless the appraiser recognizes the value of that feature it will be difficult to cover a downstairs master bed room home‘s cost. The cost of a garage area that is not tucked under is also much higher.
The adept builder will recognize when retirees again begin to drive the market. When that day arrives the master bedroom will move back downstairs.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
The New Bern real estate market has always been fairly unique. For most of my career our market demanded a master on the ground floor. We had a variety of ranch and story and a half floor plans. Only the historic or larger homes were truly two story homes. Many of these still had ground floor masters.
Men like Paul Crayton, Guion Lee, Frank Efird, Lonnie Pridgen, Tommy Karam and others put New Bern on the map as a place to retire. Port O’ Pines, later Treasure Cove and then Fairfield Harbour started the great migration. River Bend and Trent Woods began to entice retiring seniors to put down roots in our great community. Soon Weyerhaeuser began Greenbrier and many other areas that increased the flow. The one thing that these buyers required was a ground floor master bedroom. Since the retirees were the driving force of our market, resale potential required others to insist on downstairs accommodations.
Then the bubble burst!
The days of competing offers were over. That nasty pendulum swung from sellers to buyers. Prices began to fall. Our four decade flow of retirees stopped. They were no longer ready to sell their homes at post bubble prices and move. Sales of existing homes were much lower than the prices contractors needed to produce the designs they had been building. For years builders had been adding the features that made their homes superior to competitors and older homes. Buyers paid the price because the homes were going up in value and inflation would cover the expense with future gains.
A new design was needed.
It was necessary for builders to build more efficiently. Most spent hours designing, estimating and redesigning floor plans. The result has been two story homes with tuck under garages. These plans lower the price by having an upstairs master. The current driving force in the New Bern market are people who are moving here for jobs. I see Marines, Sailors, hospital employees, manufacturer workers, educators, and service job workers. Most are younger with children. Many mothers want the baby and younger ones in a room that is close. They have been quick to accept having all the bedrooms on the second floor. Builders have found that this new type of plan can be built for a lower price than many are asking for the resale of existing pre bubble burst homes. Younger buyers have consistently chosen space over features and curb appeal.
Will the master bedroom move back downstairs?
The answer is yes. When retirees accept the new reality of the housing market and find that continuing to wait to move is unacceptable, we will see them again. They will again demand a downstairs master. This will create struggles for our appraiser friends. Comparing homes of the same amount of square feet of heated space, you will find that the one with the downstairs master will cost between $8,000 to $12,000 more. Unless the appraiser recognizes the value of that feature it will be difficult to cover a downstairs master bed room home‘s cost. The cost of a garage area that is not tucked under is also much higher.
The adept builder will recognize when retirees again begin to drive the market. When that day arrives the master bedroom will move back downstairs.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Friday, October 22, 2010
Listing Prices have fallen
Trulia reports that listing prices have fallen in the last three weeks.
Sellers are competing for a limited number of buyers. The lower listing price helps insure that their home will be shown more often. Local Realtors are working hard to get their clients home sold. They realize that more homes are on the market than it will absorb. Proper pricing and well placed advertising will get the job done.
Sellers would be well advised to have their Realtor show them how many homes sold in their price range in the last 120 days. Compare those numbers to homes listed in the same price range. Together they can decide on the proper course.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Sellers are competing for a limited number of buyers. The lower listing price helps insure that their home will be shown more often. Local Realtors are working hard to get their clients home sold. They realize that more homes are on the market than it will absorb. Proper pricing and well placed advertising will get the job done.
Sellers would be well advised to have their Realtor show them how many homes sold in their price range in the last 120 days. Compare those numbers to homes listed in the same price range. Together they can decide on the proper course.
by Gary Barker
Gary has been selling real estate in New Bern since 1977
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Thursday, October 21, 2010
Buying and Storing Firewood
Knowing how to evaluate, buy, and store firewood is key to the safe, efficient operation of your fireplace, wood stove, or fireplace insert.
Before picking up the phone, it’s important to know exactly what you want to purchase so that you can clearly express that to the wood seller, says Matt Galambos, a Maine arborist certified by the International Society of Arboriculture. This includes determining the quantity, species, and condition of the firewood, all of which affect its price.
How much to buy
Homeowners who intend to heat their homes through the use of a wood stove naturally will require more firewood than those who burn only the occasional fire for pleasure. A person living in the Northeastern U.S. who burns firewood as his or her primary heat source, for example, may require up to five cords of wood to get them through the season. In contrast, a weekend-only fire builder can likely get by on as little as a half-cord. Galambos estimates that for the casual but steady fire builder, one cord of wood should easily last through winter.
Measuring a cord of wood
A cord of wood is defined as a stack of cut firewood that measures 4 feet tall by 4 feet wide by 8 feet long, or any other arrangement that equals 128 cubic feet. The individual pieces must be stacked side by side rather than the looser crisscross style. Other measurement terms, such as ricks, racks, face cords and piles, have no legal meaning and are often banned by state weights and measurements agencies. Regardless what the load is called, says Galambos, it should always be converted to cords or fractions thereof so that homeowners can determine if they are getting a fair price.
Seasoning the wood
Freshly cut wood is composed largely of water. Not only is this “green” wood difficult to ignite, but burning it can lead to a dangerous buildup of creosote, the cause of chimney fires. Properly “seasoned” firewood is wood that has been cut to length, split, and allowed to air dry for at least six months until the moisture content dips to around 20%. Dry wood will appear grayish in color and the pieces will begin to exhibit splits and cracks on the ends. Compared to freshly cut wood, seasoned wood feels light for its size.
Though seasoned firewood is the only choice for immediate use, green wood shouldn't be completely ignored, says Galambos. “If you have the room to store it and the time to dry it, buying green firewood can save you up to 25% compared with seasoned wood,” he says.
Hardwood vs. softwood
It's a common misconception that burning soft woods, such as pine and cedar, leads to dangerous creosote buildup. As long as the firewood is properly seasoned, it can safely be burned in a fireplace or stove regardless of species, says Dr. John Ball, Professor of Forestry at South Dakota State University. But that doesn’t mean that all wood is created equal.
“Tree species differ widely in the amount of heat they produce when burned,” says Ball. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and madrone produce almost twice the heat compared with softer woods, such as spruce, pine, and basswood. Fires built with hardwood not only burn hotter, they last longer, meaning the wood pile won’t get depleted as fast. Homeowners can expect to pay a premium for 100% hardwood, but Ball cautions against purchasing cheaper “mixed-wood” loads that may contain little actual hardwood.
Storing firewood
Homeowners should consider storage long before the firewood delivery truck appears in the driveway, cautions Galambos. A cord of wood takes up a significant amount of space, and if not properly stored your investment will quickly begin to rot. Firewood that is not stowed in a protected space like a garage or shed needs to be six inches off the ground. Firewood racks or simple pallets work well. If exposed to the elements, the wood pile should be at least partially covered with a waterproof tarp. Experts caution against storing the wood too close to the house for fear of inviting pests.
Average prices
Homeowners can expect to pay $75 to $150 for a half-cord and between $150 and $350 for a cord of hardwood delivered and stacked. To save some money, a person with a large truck may elect to pick up his or her own load at the wood lot.
To verify the quantity, species, and condition of the firewood, it's wise to arrange the delivery for a time when you're home. Experts say, inspect the wood for type and condition before it's unloaded, though quantity can only be accurately measured after it's stacked.
Maximize your fireplace efficiency
It’s true that a traditional wood fireplace can never rival the energy efficiency of a wood stove or even a fireplace insert, but there are ways a homeowner can trim heat loss. Fire-resistant glass doors not only reduce the volume of heated home air that escapes up the chimney, they help radiate heat back into the room. Similarly, a thick cast-iron fireback is an old-fashioned device that absorbs and emits energy in the form of radiant heat. Check the fireplace damper for leaks and always tightly seal it when the fireplace is idle.
Note about invasive pests
Forestry experts like Dr. John Ball strongly encourage homeowners to buy only local wood (wood from within a one- or two-county range) to prevent the spread of pests like the Asian longhorned beetle and emerald ash borer.
By: Douglas Trattner
Douglas Trattner has written extensively about home improvement topics for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain Dealer. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he estimates that he burned through 15 cords of wood. Most, he promises, was properly seasoned hardwood.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
.
Before picking up the phone, it’s important to know exactly what you want to purchase so that you can clearly express that to the wood seller, says Matt Galambos, a Maine arborist certified by the International Society of Arboriculture. This includes determining the quantity, species, and condition of the firewood, all of which affect its price.
How much to buy
Homeowners who intend to heat their homes through the use of a wood stove naturally will require more firewood than those who burn only the occasional fire for pleasure. A person living in the Northeastern U.S. who burns firewood as his or her primary heat source, for example, may require up to five cords of wood to get them through the season. In contrast, a weekend-only fire builder can likely get by on as little as a half-cord. Galambos estimates that for the casual but steady fire builder, one cord of wood should easily last through winter.
Measuring a cord of wood
A cord of wood is defined as a stack of cut firewood that measures 4 feet tall by 4 feet wide by 8 feet long, or any other arrangement that equals 128 cubic feet. The individual pieces must be stacked side by side rather than the looser crisscross style. Other measurement terms, such as ricks, racks, face cords and piles, have no legal meaning and are often banned by state weights and measurements agencies. Regardless what the load is called, says Galambos, it should always be converted to cords or fractions thereof so that homeowners can determine if they are getting a fair price.
Seasoning the wood
Freshly cut wood is composed largely of water. Not only is this “green” wood difficult to ignite, but burning it can lead to a dangerous buildup of creosote, the cause of chimney fires. Properly “seasoned” firewood is wood that has been cut to length, split, and allowed to air dry for at least six months until the moisture content dips to around 20%. Dry wood will appear grayish in color and the pieces will begin to exhibit splits and cracks on the ends. Compared to freshly cut wood, seasoned wood feels light for its size.
Though seasoned firewood is the only choice for immediate use, green wood shouldn't be completely ignored, says Galambos. “If you have the room to store it and the time to dry it, buying green firewood can save you up to 25% compared with seasoned wood,” he says.
Hardwood vs. softwood
It's a common misconception that burning soft woods, such as pine and cedar, leads to dangerous creosote buildup. As long as the firewood is properly seasoned, it can safely be burned in a fireplace or stove regardless of species, says Dr. John Ball, Professor of Forestry at South Dakota State University. But that doesn’t mean that all wood is created equal.
“Tree species differ widely in the amount of heat they produce when burned,” says Ball. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and madrone produce almost twice the heat compared with softer woods, such as spruce, pine, and basswood. Fires built with hardwood not only burn hotter, they last longer, meaning the wood pile won’t get depleted as fast. Homeowners can expect to pay a premium for 100% hardwood, but Ball cautions against purchasing cheaper “mixed-wood” loads that may contain little actual hardwood.
Storing firewood
Homeowners should consider storage long before the firewood delivery truck appears in the driveway, cautions Galambos. A cord of wood takes up a significant amount of space, and if not properly stored your investment will quickly begin to rot. Firewood that is not stowed in a protected space like a garage or shed needs to be six inches off the ground. Firewood racks or simple pallets work well. If exposed to the elements, the wood pile should be at least partially covered with a waterproof tarp. Experts caution against storing the wood too close to the house for fear of inviting pests.
Average prices
Homeowners can expect to pay $75 to $150 for a half-cord and between $150 and $350 for a cord of hardwood delivered and stacked. To save some money, a person with a large truck may elect to pick up his or her own load at the wood lot.
To verify the quantity, species, and condition of the firewood, it's wise to arrange the delivery for a time when you're home. Experts say, inspect the wood for type and condition before it's unloaded, though quantity can only be accurately measured after it's stacked.
Maximize your fireplace efficiency
It’s true that a traditional wood fireplace can never rival the energy efficiency of a wood stove or even a fireplace insert, but there are ways a homeowner can trim heat loss. Fire-resistant glass doors not only reduce the volume of heated home air that escapes up the chimney, they help radiate heat back into the room. Similarly, a thick cast-iron fireback is an old-fashioned device that absorbs and emits energy in the form of radiant heat. Check the fireplace damper for leaks and always tightly seal it when the fireplace is idle.
Note about invasive pests
Forestry experts like Dr. John Ball strongly encourage homeowners to buy only local wood (wood from within a one- or two-county range) to prevent the spread of pests like the Asian longhorned beetle and emerald ash borer.
By: Douglas Trattner
Douglas Trattner has written extensively about home improvement topics for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain Dealer. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he estimates that he burned through 15 cords of wood. Most, he promises, was properly seasoned hardwood.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
.
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Find the Home Loan that Fits Your Needs
Understand which mortgage loan is best for you so your budget is not stretched too thin.
The basics of mortgage financing
The most important features of your mortgage loan are its term and interest rate. Mortgages typically come in 15-, 20-, 30- or 40-year lengths. The longer the term, the lower your monthly payment. However, the tradeoff for a lower payment is that the longer the life of your loan, the more interest you’ll pay.
Mortgage interest rates generally come in two flavors: fixed and adjustable. A fixed rate allows you to lock in your interest rate for the entire mortgage term. That’s attractive if you’re risk-averse, on a fixed income, or when interest rates are low.
The risks and rewards of ARMs
An adjustable-rate mortgage does just what its name implies: Its interest rate adjusts at a future date listed in the loan documents. It moves up and down according to a particular financial market index, such as Treasury bills. A 3/1 ARM will have the same interest rate for three years and then adjust every year after that; likewise a 5/1 ARM remains unchanged until the five-year mark. Typically, ARMs include a cap on how much the interest rate can increase, such as 3% at each adjustment, or 5% over the life of the loan.
Why agree to such uncertainty? ARMs can be a good choice if you expect your income to grow significantly in the coming years. The interest rate on some—but not all—ARMs can even drop if the benchmark to which they’re tied also dips. ARMs also often offer a lower interest rate than fixed-rate mortgages during the first few years of the mortgage, which means big savings for you—even if there’s only a half-point difference.
But if rates go up, your ARM payment will jump dramatically, so before you choose an ARM, answer these questions:
How much can my monthly payments increase at each adjustment?
How soon and how often can increases occur?
Can I afford the maximum increase permitted?
Do I expect my income to increase or decrease?
Am I paying down my loan balance each month, or is it staying the same or even increasing?
Do I plan to own the home for longer than the initial low-interest-rate period, or do I plan to sell before the rate adjusts?
Will I have to pay a penalty if I refinance into a lower-rate mortgage or sell my house?
What’s my goal in buying this property? Am I considering a riskier mortgage to buy a more expensive house than I can realistically afford?
Consider a government-backed mortgage loan
If you’ve saved less than the ideal downpayment of 20%, or your credit score isn’t high enough for you to qualify for a fixed-rate or ARM with a conventional lender, consider a government-backed loan from the Federal Housing Administration or Department of Veterans Affairs.
FHA offers adjustable and fixed-rate loans at reduced interest rates and with as little as 3.5% down and VA offers no-money-down loans. FHA and VA also let you use cash gifts from family members.
Before you decide on any mortgage, remember that slight variations in interest rates, loan amounts, and terms can significantly affect your monthly payment. To determine how much your monthly payment will be with various terms and loan amounts, try REALTOR.com’s online mortgage calculators.
By: G. M. Filisko
G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who’s opted for both fixed and adjustable-rate mortgages. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
© Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit my website www.gary-barker.com
The basics of mortgage financing
The most important features of your mortgage loan are its term and interest rate. Mortgages typically come in 15-, 20-, 30- or 40-year lengths. The longer the term, the lower your monthly payment. However, the tradeoff for a lower payment is that the longer the life of your loan, the more interest you’ll pay.
Mortgage interest rates generally come in two flavors: fixed and adjustable. A fixed rate allows you to lock in your interest rate for the entire mortgage term. That’s attractive if you’re risk-averse, on a fixed income, or when interest rates are low.
The risks and rewards of ARMs
An adjustable-rate mortgage does just what its name implies: Its interest rate adjusts at a future date listed in the loan documents. It moves up and down according to a particular financial market index, such as Treasury bills. A 3/1 ARM will have the same interest rate for three years and then adjust every year after that; likewise a 5/1 ARM remains unchanged until the five-year mark. Typically, ARMs include a cap on how much the interest rate can increase, such as 3% at each adjustment, or 5% over the life of the loan.
Why agree to such uncertainty? ARMs can be a good choice if you expect your income to grow significantly in the coming years. The interest rate on some—but not all—ARMs can even drop if the benchmark to which they’re tied also dips. ARMs also often offer a lower interest rate than fixed-rate mortgages during the first few years of the mortgage, which means big savings for you—even if there’s only a half-point difference.
But if rates go up, your ARM payment will jump dramatically, so before you choose an ARM, answer these questions:
How much can my monthly payments increase at each adjustment?
How soon and how often can increases occur?
Can I afford the maximum increase permitted?
Do I expect my income to increase or decrease?
Am I paying down my loan balance each month, or is it staying the same or even increasing?
Do I plan to own the home for longer than the initial low-interest-rate period, or do I plan to sell before the rate adjusts?
Will I have to pay a penalty if I refinance into a lower-rate mortgage or sell my house?
What’s my goal in buying this property? Am I considering a riskier mortgage to buy a more expensive house than I can realistically afford?
Consider a government-backed mortgage loan
If you’ve saved less than the ideal downpayment of 20%, or your credit score isn’t high enough for you to qualify for a fixed-rate or ARM with a conventional lender, consider a government-backed loan from the Federal Housing Administration or Department of Veterans Affairs.
FHA offers adjustable and fixed-rate loans at reduced interest rates and with as little as 3.5% down and VA offers no-money-down loans. FHA and VA also let you use cash gifts from family members.
Before you decide on any mortgage, remember that slight variations in interest rates, loan amounts, and terms can significantly affect your monthly payment. To determine how much your monthly payment will be with various terms and loan amounts, try REALTOR.com’s online mortgage calculators.
By: G. M. Filisko
G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who’s opted for both fixed and adjustable-rate mortgages. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
© Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Visit my website www.gary-barker.com
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
8 Tips for Finding Your New Home
A solid game plan can help you narrow your homebuying search to find the best home for you.
1. Know thyself
Understand the type of home that suits your personality. Do you prefer a new or existing home? A ranch or a multistory home? If you’re leaning toward a fixer-upper, are you truly handy, or will you need to budget for contractors?
2. Research before you look
List the features you most want in a home and identify which are necessities and which are extras. Identify three to four neighborhoods you’d like to live in based on commute time, schools, recreation, crime, and price. Then hop onto REALTOR.com to get a feel for the homes available in your price range in your favorite neighborhoods. Use the results to prioritize your wants and needs so you can add in and weed out properties from the inventory you’d like to view.
3. Get your finances in order
Generally, lenders say you can afford a home priced two to three times your gross income. Create a budget so you know how much you’re comfortable spending each month on housing. Don’t wait until you’ve found a home and made an offer to investigate financing. Gather your financial records and meet with a lender to get a prequalification letter spelling out how much you’re eligible to borrow. The lender won’t necessarily consider the extra fees you’ll pay when you purchase or your plans to begin a family or purchase a new car, so shop in a price range you’re comfortable with. Also, presenting an offer contingent on financing will make your bid less attractive to sellers.
4. Set a moving timeline
Do you have blemishes on your credit that will take time to clear up? If you already own, have you sold your current home? If not, you’ll need to factor in the time needed to sell. If you rent, when is your lease up? Do you expect interest rates to jump anytime soon? All these factors will affect your buying, closing, and moving timelines.
5. Think long term
Your future plans may dictate the type of home you’ll buy. Are you looking for a starter house with plans to move up in a few years, or do you hope to stay in the home for five to 10 years? With a starter, you may need to adjust your expectations. If you plan to nest, be sure your priority list helps you identify a home you’ll still love years from now.
6. Work with a REALTOR®
Ask people you trust for referrals to a real estate professional they trust. Interview agents to determine which have expertise in the neighborhoods and type of homes you’re interested in. Because homebuying triggers many emotions, consider whether an agent’s style meshes with your personality. Also ask if the agent specializes in buyer representation. Unlike listing agents, whose first duty is to the seller, buyers’ reps work only for you even though they’re typically paid by the seller. Finally, check whether agents are REALTORS®, which means they’re members of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. NAR has been a champion of homeownership rights for more than a century.
7. Be realistic
It’s OK to be picky about the home and neighborhood you want, but don’t be close-minded, unrealistic, or blinded by minor imperfections. If you insist on living in a cul-de-sac, you may miss out on great homes on streets that are just as quiet and secluded. On the flip side, don’t be so swayed by a “wow” feature that you forget about other issues—like noise levels—that can have a big impact on your quality of life. Use your priority list to evaluate each property, remembering there’s no such thing as the perfect home.
8. Limit the opinions you solicit
It’s natural to seek reassurance when making a big financial decision. But you know that saying about too many cooks in the kitchen. If you need a second opinion, select one or two people. But remain true to your list of wants and needs so the final decision is based on criteria you’ve identified as important.
By: G. M. Filisko
G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who has found happiness in a brownstone in a historic Chicago neighborhood. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics
<><><><><>Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Visit my website www.gary-barker.com
1. Know thyself
Understand the type of home that suits your personality. Do you prefer a new or existing home? A ranch or a multistory home? If you’re leaning toward a fixer-upper, are you truly handy, or will you need to budget for contractors?
2. Research before you look
List the features you most want in a home and identify which are necessities and which are extras. Identify three to four neighborhoods you’d like to live in based on commute time, schools, recreation, crime, and price. Then hop onto REALTOR.com to get a feel for the homes available in your price range in your favorite neighborhoods. Use the results to prioritize your wants and needs so you can add in and weed out properties from the inventory you’d like to view.
3. Get your finances in order
Generally, lenders say you can afford a home priced two to three times your gross income. Create a budget so you know how much you’re comfortable spending each month on housing. Don’t wait until you’ve found a home and made an offer to investigate financing. Gather your financial records and meet with a lender to get a prequalification letter spelling out how much you’re eligible to borrow. The lender won’t necessarily consider the extra fees you’ll pay when you purchase or your plans to begin a family or purchase a new car, so shop in a price range you’re comfortable with. Also, presenting an offer contingent on financing will make your bid less attractive to sellers.
4. Set a moving timeline
Do you have blemishes on your credit that will take time to clear up? If you already own, have you sold your current home? If not, you’ll need to factor in the time needed to sell. If you rent, when is your lease up? Do you expect interest rates to jump anytime soon? All these factors will affect your buying, closing, and moving timelines.
5. Think long term
Your future plans may dictate the type of home you’ll buy. Are you looking for a starter house with plans to move up in a few years, or do you hope to stay in the home for five to 10 years? With a starter, you may need to adjust your expectations. If you plan to nest, be sure your priority list helps you identify a home you’ll still love years from now.
6. Work with a REALTOR®
Ask people you trust for referrals to a real estate professional they trust. Interview agents to determine which have expertise in the neighborhoods and type of homes you’re interested in. Because homebuying triggers many emotions, consider whether an agent’s style meshes with your personality. Also ask if the agent specializes in buyer representation. Unlike listing agents, whose first duty is to the seller, buyers’ reps work only for you even though they’re typically paid by the seller. Finally, check whether agents are REALTORS®, which means they’re members of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. NAR has been a champion of homeownership rights for more than a century.
7. Be realistic
It’s OK to be picky about the home and neighborhood you want, but don’t be close-minded, unrealistic, or blinded by minor imperfections. If you insist on living in a cul-de-sac, you may miss out on great homes on streets that are just as quiet and secluded. On the flip side, don’t be so swayed by a “wow” feature that you forget about other issues—like noise levels—that can have a big impact on your quality of life. Use your priority list to evaluate each property, remembering there’s no such thing as the perfect home.
8. Limit the opinions you solicit
It’s natural to seek reassurance when making a big financial decision. But you know that saying about too many cooks in the kitchen. If you need a second opinion, select one or two people. But remain true to your list of wants and needs so the final decision is based on criteria you’ve identified as important.
By: G. M. Filisko
G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who has found happiness in a brownstone in a historic Chicago neighborhood. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Property Owners Associations - Good or Evil?
I suppose the answer to the title question depends upon your view. Will you give up some personal freedom to protect your properties value? If you want to have the old Chevy sitting in the front yard on cement blocks and thirteen hounds under the porch guarding it, a POA is not for you.
One of the benefits of a POA is collective bargaining. In one subdivision that I sell the POA does all of the mowing and edging. The cost is about 40% of having a lawn service do it. Of course if you want to maintain your own equipment and provide your own labor you can do it cheaper.
Another benefit is the enforcement of restrictive covenants to help protect your interest. Covenants control the appearance and use of adjoining properties.
What happens if you live in a subdivision with a POA and a neighbor violates the covenants? Once notified the board of directors of the POA will pursue the matter for your benefit. If it becomes necessary they will spend POA funds to hire an attorney to seek relief from the courts.
Suppose you live in a subdivision with restrictive covenants but without a property owner’s association. Enforcement will fall to an owner who decides the violation damages his interest sufficiently to require action. You will experience the stress of confronting your neighbor. Should you need to go to court the attorney will ask you to write a big check. Most won’t do that. Once restrictions are allowed to be violated without challenge they become almost impossible to enforce later. An active Property Owners Association can help continued enforcement of covenants.
Before purchasing check to see if the subdivision has a POA and the fees it charges. You need to determine if the Association’s goals and values line up with yours. If there isn’t association you need to weigh the risk and cost of enforcing covenants on your own. What freedoms will you sacrifice to protect the very large investment your home represents?
Property Owners Associations - Good or Evil? Only you can decide.
Visit my website http://www.gary-barker.com/
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Negotiate your best house buy
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Negotiate Your Best House Buy
Keep your emotions in check and your eyes on the goal, and you’ll pay less when purchasing a home. Read
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.
Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
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